Stainless steel doesn't rust under normal conditions. Stainless gets its non corrosive properties from the chromium in the alloy. The chromium atoms form a passive surface film over the base steel very much like the paint protects your car. Once this layer is removed the base metal is exposed to the moisture in the atmosphere and rust forms. Chlorine in any form combines with the chromium and removes this protective layer and exposes the base metal and rust will occur. NEVER use any chemicals that contain chlorine near any stainless. This includes any cleaners, acids to clean quarry tile or brick, and some detergents. Even the vapors can attack stainless steel. Never use steel wool to clean stainless. Particles of the steel wool will get trapped in the grain of the stainless and these steel particles will rust.

There could be something in the grease trough that is preventing the grease from draining. Remove filters and check the trough. Grease troughs should be cleaned frequently to remove any solid sediment that accumulates restricting the flow of grease.

This water is entering the fixture from above. The glass globe is gasketed and if it is on tight water cannot enter from below. The probable cause of this is the duct is leaking. Look at the top of the hood above the ceiling and if you see puddles of water and grease on top of the hood, the duct has a leak. If the duct in not insulated you will probably see some areas, especially in the corners, that look wet.

Only use mild detergents to clean stainless. DO NOT use any cleaner with chlorine. Use a soft rag. DO NOT use any abrasive pads or steel wool.

Filters should be cleaned daily. Clogged filters don't work efficiently and are more difficult to clean. Keeping them clean makes cleaning easier and prevents the build-up of caked on grease and eliminates a potential fire hazard.

There is probably a leak in the duct allowing grease to collect on top of the hood and it is draining into the fixtures. Check the top of the hood above the ceiling. Any puddles of grease or water indicate there is a leak in the duct.

Yes, both are Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories that test, certify and inspect products for safety and performance for manufacturers. The standard to which our hoods are tested is UL 710, Exhaust fans are tested to UL Standards UL 762 & UL 705 . You can visit this link for a comparison.

• Incandescent light bulbs: 100 Watts max, clear bulb (not frosted)
• 3' Fluorescent: F25T8, 25 Watts, T-8 Ballast
• 4' Fluorescent: F32T8, 32 Watts, T-8 Ballast
• Compact Fluorescent:
  • Lamp type: Compact Fluorescent - Self-Ballasted
  • Bulb: T3
  • Base: Medium Screw (E26)
  • ENERGY STAR® Qualified: Yes
  • Wattage: 26

1. My hood only has 2 filters.
   First lift one filter in the track and moving it toward the back of the grease plenum rest it in the trough with the top leaning o the back of the grease plenum, filter should be standing near vertical and away from filter track. Next side remaining filter over and remove this filter as normal, then reach into plenum and remove the first filter.
2. My hood is a Self Cleaning style hood.
   Consult your hood manual to locate the “key” filter, Self cleaning hoods have drip blanks installed on all but one filter to prevent water dripping between the filters. The filter without drip blanks should be removed first (the same filter should be replaced last)
3. Neither A or B describe my hood.
   Consult your sales representative and or a service consultant

If the hood system was provided with our control panel the system is probably in fire condition. In this mode the exhaust fan will not shut off and the supply fan will not come on. Other possible causes are the R1 relay is bad in the control panel, or the contactor coil is open.

Super Filter Coat is a water soluble adhesive applied to the mesh filter after each washing. The adhesive is characteristic of fly paper as it will trap the dust and dirt particles from the airstream. This is available from our website. It is part number 412.

Yes, both are Nationally Recognized Testing Laboratories that test, certify and inspect products for safety and performance for manufacturers. The standard to which CAS hoods are tested is UL 710, Exhaust fans are tested to UL Standards UL 762 & UL 705. You can visit this link for a comparison.

On direct drive motors the FLA listed on the nameplate is the amperage at its highest speed. The speed control reduces the speed of the motor by lowering the voltage supplied. Basic electric laws dictate that when you decrease the voltage the amperage increases. This is normal for these types of motors. Speed controls used on direct drive fans are rated higher than the motor to accommodate this increase.

Yes. View the comparison.

All motors are suitable for high and low voltage applications. Single phase motors are rated 115/208-230. This means the low voltage is 115 volts and the high is 208-230. Similarly three phase motors are rated 208-230/460. This means that the low voltage is 208-230 and the high voltage is 460.

To change the supply voltage, refer to the diagram on the motor label for wiring instructions.

If a pre-wire is included on the job you will need to replace the contactors and/or overloads because of the change in FLA (refer to the motor label).

If the supply fan is a heater, one will need to rewire the KVA transformer for the new voltage.

NOTE: A single phase motor cannot be converted to three phase and a three phase cannot be converted to single phase. The motor must be replaced.

Simply adding an explosion proof motor to a fan does not make it explosion proof. Explosion proof fans have to be modified to meet the AMCA requirements listed below. In some jurisdiction, explosion proof switches and filled conduits have to be provided due to these variations in design we do not offer an AMCA construction.